副主编暨时尚总监 Sarah Harris为蕾哈娜Rihanna踏入精品时尚的首波系列所做出的Vogue深度评论。
Deputy Editor & Fashion Features Director Sarah Harris delivers the Vogue verdict on Rihanna's first foray into luxury fashion.

蕾哈娜Rihanna 我行我素的作风早就不是秘密。她与LVMH精品集团合作的首次时装系列Fenty在巴黎快闪店的一场彩排，她先是将会议推迟一个小时，接着迟到两小时，最终迟了三个小时才抵达现场。如果是其他设计师，编辑们想必会大发飙，不留情面应声离开现场。相反地，他们(在现场)买的很开心。当时尚界最严厉的评论家也开始从架上买起来时，这无疑是蕾哈娜Rihanna再度大获成功的一个迹象！
It's no secret that Rihanna marches to the beat of her own drum. At the pop-up store in Paris for a walk-through of Fenty, her debut ready-to-wear collection created in partnership with luxury conglomerate LVMH, she postponed the meeting by one hour, which then turned into a further two-hour delay before she eventually arrived more than three hours late. If this were any other designer, editors would be fuming, loudly staging a mass walk-out. Instead, they were happily shopping. When the fashion world's harshest critics begin purchasing straight from the rails, it's a sure sign that Rihanna has another hit on her hands.

这个系列费时两年制作，售价从200欧元的束腰白色T恤，到约莫1,100欧元可两穿的军装外套。这些是所有蕾哈娜一直想要但无法在自己衣橱内找到的单品。「我常常走进店里，想着，『我喜欢这个，但我希望它更像另一种...，另一款颜色或其他材质』 – 现在我可以做到了，」穿着Fenty订制的白色西装迷你短裙的她这样说道。
The collection – two years in the making and priced from 200 Euros for a white, waist-cinched T-shirt up to around 1,100 Euros for a reversible parka – is a round-up of the kind of clothes Rihanna wanted to have in her own wardrobe but couldn’t find. “I often walk into stores and I'm like, ‘I love this, but I wish it was more like that, or in a different colour or in a different fabric’ – and now I get to do it,” she said, dressed in Fenty's tailored white blazer-minidress hybrid.

系列亮点包括加强肩线的马甲式硬挺牛仔套装，以及与之搭配的腰包，男款棉质衬衫和日式原色牛仔布制成的多口袋 oversize夹克。「我偏好强烈的剪裁，让女人看起来更自信，是我想透过这系列达成的目标。」她说。
Highlights included strong-shouldered corseted trouser suits sold with matching bum-bags, men's cotton shirting, and multi-pocketed oversized jackets in Japanese raw denim. “I love strong silhouettes, and for women to look confident, that's what I want to achieve with this collection,” she said.

首次亮相的还有配饰系列，从尖头和中性色调的尖头繫带凉鞋、护目墨镜，以及采用金色抛光和水晶装饰，夸张大胆的建筑风格首饰。「我向来热爱时尚和风格，」她解释说，「我也喜欢所有我妈妈的穿搭，从她的妆到服装......」我问妈妈的风格是什么样的？「哦，她是个坏女孩。即使她穿了许多oversized 的单品，但仍然非常女性化，我只想成为她。」
The debut extends, too, to accessories, from point-toe strappy sandals in zingy and neutral hues, to statement shield sunglasses, and bold architectural jewellery in polished gold with crystal pave. “I always had a love of fashion and style,” she explained, adding, “I loved everything my mum wore, from her make-up to her clothing...” I ask what her mum's style was like. “Oh, she was bad ass. She wore a lot of oversized stuff but still very feminine, I just wanted to be her.”

当然，这并不是蕾哈娜Rihanna第一次涉足时尚。31岁的她曾是Puma女装系列的创意总监，她在Savage x Fenty联名下设计了内衣。但这是她第一次在精品行业工作。「我们使用所有我遇到过最好的面料； 一切都做得很精细。我们想要最好的品质，并且想创造出一个人可以永远拥有的单品。我知道每一件作品的制作过程都是如此。」她自己亲力亲为进行了试穿与测试，并说Fenty非常注重合身性。「我的身材凹凸有致，如果我自己都不能穿我的东西那么这就行不通。我需要知道穿上去后，我的臀部，大腿，肚子看起来如何？ - 它对我来说是好看还是仅是适合身材纤细的模特儿？这一点很重要。」
Of course, this isn't her first foray into fashion. The 31-year-old was creative director of women's collections for Puma, and she has designed lingerie under the Savage x Fenty moniker. But this is her first experience of working in the luxury sector. “We're using the best fabrics I've ever encountered; everything is so well made. We want the best quality and we want to make something that someone can have forever. I know what's gone into the making of every single piece.” She's tried and tested everything herself and says there is big emphasis on fit. “I'm a curvy girl, if I can't wear my stuff then it just won't work. I need to see how it looks on my hips, on my thighs, on my stomach – does it look good on me or only on a fit model? It's important.”